Padstow to Newquay

June 27, 2018

Even though we were up early for our breakfast at 8 am, it still took us quite a while to get our packs organized, and finally we started at 9:30 am. Again the weather was warm and sunny, and initially there was some breeze but then it died down for the rest of the day.

We started by walking back to the ferry dock and then uphill to the World War I Memorial. Looking back to Padstow we could see the extent of the Camel estuary. This morning the tide was quite low so the ferry did a large turn around a sand bar to get over to Rock, and we could see the famous “Doom Bar” which blocks the estuary and has been responsible for many shipwrecks.

Padstow at low tide
Padstow at low tide

This section of the path was well-kept but we soon got onto parts which were seriously overgrown. The grasses (and stinging nettles) were very tall and in one place vines overhung the path so much that it was almost impossible to get through. (Soon we came across a couple of county workers clearing a part of the path which looked like it needed clearing less!)

Windblown trees
Windblown trees

Today our trip mostly meandered along cliff-tops and around headlands, with no serious elevation change. The views were once again spectacular, with lovely blue sky and a variety of blues and greens. We stopped at the Daymark Tower to have some tea and a chocolate orange biscuit, and we were surprised to find two of the local sheep sheltering in the old tower!

Daymark Tower
Daymark Tower

Then we continued on, enjoying the views, to Trevone Bay, where we stopped to have lunch at the surf shop. The beaches were very busy and it felt a lot like California, except for the English mums with their babies. And we bought a Cornish pasty for lunch, made by the Chough Bakery.

For the rest of the afternoon we proceeded along the coast, quite slowly because Rosemary’s feet were very sore. Going uphill was actually fairly easy but downhill wasn’t. We continued along to Trevose Head, where we sat on a bench and finished off the last of our tea. We also finished off a very melted chocolate orange biscuit. From here it didn’t take very long to get to Constantine Bay, where we followed the beach to the YHA at Treyarnon Bay.

Treyarnon Beach
Treyarnon Beach

We had originally booked a double room there but a “mistake” had been made in their booking system, so we got bumped in favour of a school group. Luckily for us there was a deluxe bell tent available (for £10 less) and we took that. It was very large, with a double bed and two single beds plus a wood-burning stove. We put our packs into the tent and got things sorted out, and then went over to the main building for showers.

Treyarnon YHA
Treyarnon YHA

After that we went for dinner. The hostel was very full of visitors buying drinks and snacks, so it took them a while to switch over to providing meals for hostel guests. (Especially since we seemed to be the only hostel guests trying to buy dinner.) But it all worked out; both of us had chicken tikka masala followed by a white chocolate raspberry ice-cream cake.

It was clear now that carrying all of our gear wasn’t working in this hot weather. So Rosemary sent a request to a baggage-transfer service to arrange for our bags to be moved for us, starting tomorrow. Hopefully they can get that set up.

Back at our tent it was quite cool outside. We closed the tent windows to keep the day’s heat in, and we didn’t expect to need the wood stove or even the extra blankets.

June 28, 2018

Last night the duvet in our tent had been quite warm enough, and by the time we were up and ready for breakfast at 8 am it was already getting to be too warm. And we were in luck: the baggage-transfer company already had a pickup in Treyarnon so they would pick up our bags as well. This really made our day!

After finishing breakfast—served from what was left after the school group had eaten—we headed back to the tent to decide which bags would be transferred. In the end we managed to come up with two day packs and two bags to transfer, although the day packs were a bit too small. But it would have to do.

By now it was nearly 10 am; so much for leaving early. But walking was much easier with the small day packs and Rosemary’s blisters didn’t complain very much. And luckily we had some Compeed so she had applied two patches to each blister.

Common Linnet
Common Linnet

Once again the day was sunny, with the temperature being 25°C according to the lifeguards’ board. The views were really good today, due to very interesting erosion along the coastline, and we passed by a lot of sandy beaches where people were swimming or paddle-boarding. For most of the day we walked along headlands with the occasional descent to villages.

We stopped in Porthcothan to buy two oranges for lunch, but as it turned out we bought lunch at the National Trust café near the Bedruthan Steps. Rosemary had a jacket potato with beans and Paul had a bacon and cheese bun. And both of us had a vanilla milkshake, which was really tasty and cold. The oranges could wait until later.

Bedruthan Steps beach
Bedruthan Steps beach

As we continued onwards we could see our destination, Newquay, off in the distance. A couple of times we talked about the option of dropping out and catching the hourly A5 bus into Newquay. When we got to Watergate Bay we almost did that, but we couldn’t see any bus stop so we trudged up the hill. We were almost halfway to Newquay before we saw a bus, but by now we were both glad that we had decided to walk. Eventually we limped into Newquay, but we had walked quite a bit farther than yesterday in a shorter time. So we were pleased with that.

Watergate Bay
Watergate Bay

Our hotel was the Griffin Inn, which we found fairly easily. Check-in was quick and easy and our bags were waiting for us. In our room we made some tea and had showers to wash off all the salt, then rinsed out some clothes before going down to dinner.

It turned out that tonight was the England vs Belgium World Cup match, which in the end Belgium won 1-0, so the dining room was full of people watching the TV. But there were tables at the back so we got one of them. Today being Thursday, the hotel had a carvery so that is what we both had for dinner. Turkey, beef, ham, Yorkshire pudding, roasted potatoes, carrots, and peas. Definitely a really good deal for under £10. No milkshakes tonight though.

Next: Newquay to Portreath